Guest 700- Registered: 11 Jun 2010
- Posts: 2,868
After reading Ed Connell's extracts about Kent from Cobbett's Rural Rides, here is an atmospheric description of what Snargate Street once was:
"Recollections of Snargate Street, Dover" (October 1839 to Oct 1840)
(taken from the Dover Telegraph 12 March 1864):
In "Temple Bar" for the present month, Mr Sala has an article about Snargate Street, being one of a series on the "Streets of the World". It would be too great a tax on our space to reproduce the whole of it, and as Mr Sala laughs at the exceedingly severe on that much maligned portion of our townspeople, the lodging-house keepers, we all the more readily confine our extract to what is, after all, the only part of the article in which Snargate Street is alluded to:-
"The invalids, old maids, sea-dipping families, and other loungers, who come to Dover in the bathing season and take houses, or lodgings, in the green-verandahed houses, do not necessarily see anything of Snargate Street; and he who knows not Snargate Street cannot be familiar with Dover. It is reckoned as not quite a genteel thing to explore the interior of the town. The police bathers, do not choose to come in contact with the miscellaneous multitude of travellers bound to and from the Continent. The "railway people" they hold in abhorrence. Then there is a rout of engineers, contractors, quarry-men, masons, divers and navvies employed in the construction of that harbour of refuge, which is to be brought to a termination some time on this side of the Greek Kalends, and all these form a society too heterogeneous - leaving out the sailors and pilots and mail-agents, and steamboat-captains - come between the wind and the nobility of a watering-place. The bathers, therefore, keep to their parades and their esplanades, their green verandahs, and their Bath-chairs; to the placid contemplation of the "sad sea waves" to placid gambolling on its sandy or shingly bed, or to the scientific inspection of the common objects of its shore.
"Dover I studied, years ago, in a very different spirit. We came to the town from the South of France and elected to stay there six months. We stayed a whole year - from October 1839 to October 1840. We lived in Snargate Street, and affiliated ourselves to the manners and customs of the Dovorians: - a proud race, very self-sufficient and, from long habitude to passing tourists - who are overcharged, who grumble, who swear, but who depart and are never seen again, - much given to extortion.
I can recollect with minute fidelity the little first-floor in Snargate Street we occupied; the good old widow-woman who kept the lodgings, who used to tell my little sister and myself heart-rending stories about the missionaries in Quashibungo, also soliciting small pecuniary aid from us towards the funds of the Anti-Slavery Society, but who at the same time would bestow upon us those appetising but too luscious delicacies known as "Fleet Cakes" (*) - thin, brown, crisp parallel-opipeds, into the composition of which hog's lard enters somewhat too largely.
Over the way - as the immortal historian of the Pickwick Club has so graphically put it with reference to Goswell Street - was "the other side" of Snargate Street; but above the houses of that other side towards the "Heights" - the chalk cliffs, their pallid sides engrailed with wild herbage and their summits clothed with a serrated-edged mantle of grey-green. Nestling among the acclivities - little nests of snug enjoyment among the precipices - were the summer-houses of the Snargate Street shopkeepers - tiny pavilions and kiosques and cabins no bigger than the huts of railway signal-men, but often fantastically decorated whither on summer evenings and Sunday afternoons they would blithely amber, to smoke the pipe of peace, to sip the tankard of contentment or the bohea of Bourgeois beatitude, unmindful, or tranquilly supraspective, of the bustle and clamour, the carking business troubles and anxieties of the street and of the world below.
"I remember one day walking in Snargate Street, Dover, that we met the great Duke of Wellington, arm-in-arm with his beloved military secretary, Lord Fitzroy Somerset, afterwards as you are aware, Constable of Walmer Castle: and as he liked to do some work and earn his money in whatsoever post he was appointed to - if they had made him a policeman, he would have gone cheerfully on night duty - he was frequently at Walmer (where he died some fourteen years after I first beheld him) and at Dover fulfilling in his usual earnest, methodical, straightforward way, the mysterious functions of Constable. What those functions really amounted to, I have not the remotest idea, nor, I imagine, does the present holder of the charge, Lord Palmerston, trouble himself much about them. Once seen, all will agree with me, the Duke of Wellington could never be forgotten. It was impossible to erase from your memory that slight, spare, and yet squarely-built form; that eagle beak; that blue surtout and muslin neckcloth, with his silver buckle behind; that shiny-napped, narrow-brimmed hat; those buckskin gloves of which a couple of fingers were punctually conveyed to the front of the hat at every salute of the passer-by (the action became mechanical, for every passenger, gentle and simple, took off his hat to the Great Duke); those well-fitting boots and snowy duck trousers, white and straight and smooth as though they had been made of bois de Spa. My dear mother happened to be acquainted with the Duke of Wellington - at which announcement Hircius and Spungius will doubtless sneer and cavil. I merely state a simple fact; but I may add that his grace never asked me to dinner, and that I am not on sufficient intimate terms to ask the present Duke to present me at court - ticket of leave and all. I remember however that Duke Arthur patted me on the head, and said something short and kind, as it was his wont to do with little boys. I went home immediately delighted, and forthwith proceeded to indite a compendious biography of the Duke of Wellington on a slate, and to draw him on a fly-leaf of a copy-book mounted on a fiery charger and in the act of winning the Battle of Waterloo and personally defeating Napoleon Bonaparte.
"The last time I was at Dover I purposely missed the last mail-train to London, and walked up and down Snargate Street for a good hour and a half, to see whether the old place was changed. Well, I did find it altered. The old house whose first floor we occupied, and where the landlady used to make us the Fleet-cakes had been gutted, transformed, metamorphosed, transmogrified, and was now a staring haberdasher's shop. The post-office had been enlarged and beautified. The summer-houses nestling in the chalk seemed to have wonderfully diminished in numbers; landslips had, perhaps, been frequent since my old cap was new, or the citizens had grown too prosperous and too proud to take any pleasure in the simple amusements of their sires. The theatre was a theatre no longer. It had been changed into a dancing and singing saloon, a "music-hall", dignified with some out-of-the-way name; and as I am prejudiced enough to have a horror of music-halls, I began to rub my eyes and, deploring the mutability of all sublunary things to assume the glories of Snargate Street to be for ever fled.
But when I saw the entrance to the Shaft, and the red-jacketed soldiers lounging about - the officers wore bull-frogged surtouts, and not scarlet shell-jackets, in my time - I felt reassured, and recognised, in all their pristine freshness, the beloved scenes of my youth.
For in Snargate Street I was but one among a happy family; and of that family I am the only one left alive now, to tell the tale."
(spelling as printed)
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K.
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Lincolnshire Born and Bred
howard mcsweeney1- Location: Dover
- Registered: 12 Mar 2008
- Posts: 62,352
wonderful post kath, left me spellbound with the detail of life in snargate street all those years ago.
just one minor point, why was the duke of wellington walking along arm in arm with another chap?
he was known as the "iron duke", students of rhyming slang will put another slant on that now.
Guest 649- Registered: 12 Mar 2008
- Posts: 14,118
And as you all know he would stay at the weekends at the house my family now own and when you go into the great hall you can see a great oil painting of him, mywife and myself love going there.I have done a posting about the house and the then owners only last week on the Dover Forum.
Guest 700- Registered: 11 Jun 2010
- Posts: 2,868
Yes, Vic, very interesting about the house. I have Northants ancestry too.
K.
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Lincolnshire Born and Bred
Guest 684- Registered: 26 Feb 2009
- Posts: 635
Fascinating stuff about Snargate Street, Kath.
My mum tells me that my grandmother used to refer to certain Dovorian women of ill-repute as "Snargate Street Dollies". It was a common nickname for local 'working girls' in the early part of last century, apparently!
Guest 645- Registered: 12 Mar 2008
- Posts: 4,463
Andrew
I've also heard something similar an old friend of mine had an acquaintance called Dottie who came home one night after 'working' on Snargate St.
"How much did you earn?" he asked
"Twelve pounds Ten Shillings and sixpence" she replied
"Who was the tight bugger that gave you sixpence" he snarled
"They all did" she said
Marek
I think therefore I am (not a Tory supporter)
Guest 700- Registered: 11 Jun 2010
- Posts: 2,868
Andrew - yes, with Snargate Street being regarded as he most important commercial area of Dover, no doubt there was a lot of disreputable conduct ... as well as the up-market businesses.
Here are a few references in the mid 1800s - the "Dollies" appear to have been commonly called 'nymphs of he pave' in the press reports:
McGUIN, a nymph of the pave~ : Accused of picking pockets, (6 lines report) - discharged
(Dover Telegraph 17.1. 1846 p. 8 col. 2)
Elizabeth CULLEN. Dover Police Report, was the accused - "a nymph of the pave'. Fined 12/-
(Dover Telegraph 10 Jan 1846 p.8 col.1
(see also Dover Telegraph 14 Mar 1846 p.1 col.4, a similar case, fined £1)
CULLEN - a person who "kept a house of ill fame at 25 Snargate Street, Dover - one of the girls there was named CARPENTER " were mentioned in case of a Mr. GODDEN, cornfactor of Ashford who committed suicide there after staying the night (shot himself with revolver) (Sat. Oct 9 1858 Dover Express)
K.
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Lincolnshire Born and Bred
Guest 684- Registered: 26 Feb 2009
- Posts: 635
Thanks for that again, Kath.
Very interesting snippets of social history about the street that was historically Dover's most important maritime and trading artery (as opposed to a choked racetrack for Eastern European lorry drivers, into which, with yet more visionary planning, it's been so beautifully transformed).
Andy
Guest 690- Registered: 10 Oct 2009
- Posts: 4,150
Very interesting thread Kath, and my hope is that what`s left of Snargate Street is preserved for posterity. What a lovely row of shops that would make along what`s left of it, on the lines of Folkestone`s cobbled lane maybe, but with no structure alteration`s to the present building`s.
Tell them that I came, and no one answered.
